Boss BV7340 In-Dash 3.2" DVD/MP3/CD Touchpanel Widescreen Receiver with USB

Car Audio or Theater (Boss Audio Systems, Inc.)


Boss Audio Systems, Inc.

List Price: $239.00
Price: $121.98
You Save: $117.02 (49%)

  • AM/FM radio, DVD/SDVD, SVCD/VCD, CD, CD-R/RW, MP3/MP4/WMA receiver
  • 4 x 80 Watts maximum power with front/rear RCA outputs
  • Includes front panel auxiliary input, USB port, SD card slot, wireless remote
  • Detachable front panel with 3.2 inch monitor and touch-sensitive controls
  • One-year limited warranty

Lanzar OPTI6.1 400-Watt 6.5-Inch Component System

Car Audio or Theater (Sound Around)


Sound Around

List Price: $153.99
Price: $71.40
You Save: $82.59 (54%)

  • 6.5" Midrange Driver
  • Impedance: 4 Ohms
  • Butyl Rubber Surround
  • Frequency Response: 55-6KHz
  • 200 Watts RMS / 400 Watts Peak

Boss 638UA In-Dash CD/MP3 Receiver with Front Panel AUX Input & USB

Car Audio or Theater (Boss Audio Systems, Inc.)


Boss Audio Systems, Inc.

List Price: $129.00
Price: $77.66
You Save: $51.34 (40%)

  • 4 x 60 Watts maximum power with 5V RCA preamp output
  • AM/FM radio, CD, CD-R/RW, MP3 receiver
  • Active black mask display with illuminated control buttons and quartz digital clock
  • Includes front panel auxiliary input, USB port, SD card slot, wireless remote
  • One-year limited warranty

Boss CH6CK 6-1/2-Inch Two-Way Component Speaker System

Car Audio or Theater (BOSS AUDIO)


BOSS AUDIO

List Price: $59.99
Price: $34.88
You Save: $25.11 (42%)

  • Voice coil, 1-inch aluminum; tweeter, 1-inch polyimide dome
  • Impedance, 4 ohm; frequency response, 60 hz ¿ 20 khz; spl 1 watt/1 meter, 92 db
  • Cone material, poly injection
  • Midrange, n/a
  • Power handling, peak 350 watts; magnet structure, 20 oz

Pyramid BNPS102 10-Inch 1000-Watt Dual Bandpass System with Neon Accent Lighting

Car Audio or Theater (Sound Around)


Sound Around

List Price: $184.80
Price: $88.61
You Save: $96.19 (52%)

  • The BNPS102 features two 10 inches woofers in a custom built band pass box
  • Built-In Neon Accent Lighting
  • With a 1000 watt power handling and band pass design, this system is sure to impress

What is the best car audio system? again?

I asked this question earlier about getting a car system for my 2008 Dodge Charger. I don't know anything about audio systems and requirements. I just need help on finding a good audio system for less than $500 if possible a Kicker, Alipine, or Infinity. If you could list the name of each part of a system I should get like the sub, amp, etc. Please help me. Thanks.


Amps:
An amplifier does exactly what the word implies. It amplifies/ enhances your music. The enhancement is along the lines of making your music louder and more clear no matter what the volume is set to while getting rid of any type of distortion.

Amp Types:
Mono, 1 2 3 4 5... channel amps refer to how many watts of power a particular amp supplies over an "X" amount of channels. For example, an amp has 100 watts and its is a 4 channel amp then it will provide 25 watts on each of its four channels, splitting up the wattage.

You use mono amps to power subwoofers
You use multi-channel amps to power speakers
Also, when choosing amps for speakers and subs, make sure the rms wattage matches between the amp powering the subwoofer
and matches between the amp powering the speakers.

And one of the main things to know when considering amps, speakers, and subwoofers is the RMS wattage. The RMS wattage tells you how many amps a product can provide or take without pushing the risk of frying that product. Don't pay attention to the max wattage because it means nothing (it's only for advertisement).

If you have a one (mono) channel amp with a RMS wattage of 1000 and you want to power 2 sub then each sub would get 500 watts RMS each.

Amps are obvously very important. Without a great amp, your system will suffer.

Crossover:
Is simply a filter. It is a device that regulates high, low and mid range frequencies and sends these frequencies to the proper speaker (mid-range freq) subwoofer (low freq) or tweeter (high freq) in order to create better sound quality.

As far as the number of amps you can have all depends on your power supply (alternator and battery) and bank account. Most people have 1-3 amps on average (one and two is more likely).

Good amp companies:
Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Hifonics, JL audio, Kenwood.



You also need to upgrade on you factory speakers for improved sound. It is best to get component speakers in the front doors and coaxial speakers in the rear deck/back of car. But you can get all components or all coaxial. Whatever you want.

Component speakers: are speakers that come with separate tweeter and amplifier (better).
Coaxials: is just a woofer with tweeter built on to it. (not as good as coacials but sufficient).

Good speaker companies:
Alpine, Polk, Infinti, Pioneer

You need subwoofers to provide the deep heart-pounding bass.

Good companies for subs:
Alpine, Infinity, Kicker, JL audio, Kenwood, MTX, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer to name a few.

You also need an enclosure for the subs. Mainly there is sealed and ported/vented.
Sealed enclosure provide more accurate, precise sound that not as loud but loud enough, whereas ported provides louder more boomy bass while loosing some sound quality. Your choice. Also, If you can, always go custom with the box, but prefabricated boxes are okay.

To wire everything up you also need an amp installation kit. You will at least need to get a 4 gauge amp installation kit. If you decide to get multiple amp get a dual amp kit. I suggest Rockford Fosgate to provide more power I suggest the RFK4 or RFK4X for one amp install. The RFK4D is good for a two amp install. RF's wires are pure copper so you'll have a better electric current flow thus more power. Streetwires is good as well.

Decks are very important as well. If you don't have a pretty decent deck to man your whole operation the sytem will suffer too. You might possibly need a mounting kit (maybe). You also will need a wiring harness to install the deck.

Good companies:
Alpine, Pioneer, Eclipse, Kenwood, JVC

For better sound you should also get your car insulated. You could do the entire car. At least get the trunk of your car insulated.This will reduce the rattling caused by the sound-waves/bass. There is nothing more embarassing than to be rollin down the street and all you hear is a damn rattle box pretending to be a true system. I suggest Dynamat Xtreme. Yes it is pretty expensive but it gets the job done. There are other alternatives to sound dampening material as well. I just don't know too many.

Cost:

Here's my take on the whole money thing. In car audio 99% of the time you get what you pay for. I always tell myself if you want something you're going to pay for it. If you want top quality it's not going to be cheap. With that being said. A quality system to me is one that costs about $800-$1200 or more. My system was $1300 dollars for everything including install. I did some the install myself and saved a good bit of cash. My entire system is Alpine by the way. I love them. But there are ways to get quality merchandise without breaking the bank. You can try pawn shops or talk to some buddies and see if they will sell their stuff.

Ebay is great. There is also craiglist.com, crutchfield.com, onlinecarstereo.com, sonicelectronix.com. Crutchfield is the best company on the internet. I spent a lot of time on their site.

For quality brands at a great price try all of the companies I mentioned and there are many more but they are the one I suggest to people. If you're on a budget I'd lean towards Kicker, Pioneer, Kenwood, and MTX.

But for all your stuff look on ebay. You will save a ton of money as opposed to buying reatil in a store like bestbuy or circuit city or some local shop.

I hope this helps and good luck!


for that price grab 2 10" kicker cvrs and an amp that rated 800 watts rms go for a sealed enclosure with 0.80 cubic foot space for each sub and fill the enclosure up lightly with poly-fill as the kicker will be able to handle more power sealed then in a ported box, 400 rms as 300 rms in a ported box, i recommend 10" to 12" as 10 respond quicker as suppose to 12", 12 will play louder(they have a larger surface area, therefore push more air but will not respond as quick) kickers best pound for price u can prob grab a pair for $240 the box $60 the amp will run dont go cheap on the amp and look at the rms ratting on it not the peak power ratting so amp will run around $250 hifonics is the shit if u got a bit more money and also dont got cheap on the wires run 8awg on the subs to amp and ull need 4 awg on the amp for power.


Dirty south, I'm in the south we got the same taste. It will be a litttle over, but believe me, this will beat hard as hell.

Two 15" CVR - Total 230$
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3411_Kicker+05CVR154.html

Ported box, 3.25 cu ft per chamber 190$
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3639

2000 watt max amp 160$
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14613_Power+Acoustik+LFA1-2000D.html

The subs are 500 watts RMS each. They are dual 4 ohm which can be wired down to inbetween 1 and 2 ohms. The amp says @ 1ohm 1200 watts and @ 2 ohms 900 watts, so you'll be getting a constant power in between 900 and 1200 watts.
Use a 4 gauge wiring kit.
I'd know I'd know.

What do i need to know about purchasing a car audio system?

Being a girl, naturally i know nothing about cars espesh car audio systems. What do i need to know, in general about buying a new system that is inexpensive but still sounds good. I know nothing about it so the simpler the better. What are subs, amps, face plates- yada yada yada.


I'm a girl, and its not complicated at all,
Basicly,
Sub woofers are for bass. Depending on what kind of music you listen to will vary the size of the sub.(eg. 10inch is for hard hitting bass(dance), 12 is for deeper bass(hip hop/rap, 15 inch is for competition pretty much.
Amps power everything, they are the extra power to run more speakers/subs. There are special amps designed just for subs, they are called mono block.
Decks/face plates, are your cd player/mp3..whatever, the face plate is the part that comes off for security.

Tell me what kind of car and music you listen to/ and price range and I will edit.


Some things to know http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com


ok i will try to make everything simple(i have a sister that i had to explain everything to so i know where you are coming from)

i will start with the inside of the car and work to the trunk.

Decks
-Im sure you know what a cd player is(j/k) but if you ever want to replace a stock cd player then you are going to by what is called an aftermarket cd player or cd Deck. It comes with bells and whistles. Some of these bells and whistles include face plates. A Detachable face plate allows you to remove the fron of the cd player aka the face plate(the thing that has all the buttons on it) and put it in a safe place so it wont get stolen if youre car is ever broken into. When getting a cd player make sure they have pre-amp outs. This will mean that they have an output avalability so that you can hook up a amp and sub( you only need 2 pre amp outs but i would reccomend 4 so that you can expand as much as you want)

Car Speakers
---- If you want to replace your car speakers so that your high frequency( the frequency that produces the music instrument and the words of the songs....not the bass part even though it produces some amount of bass) will be louder then this are what you want to look for: Look to see what the cone is made out of. A polypropylene cone is what you will want. polypropylene cones are made out of a hard material that is less likely to be bent out of shape when turned up really loud. You could check Crutchfield.com to see what size speakers you need to replace the ones you have.

Amp And Subs
The amp and subwoofer combines to produce the bass and the thump in the trunk. Things to look for: The wattage is the first thing you want to look for but do not go by Max Watts but instead go by RMS Wattage(This is the most important thing you want to look for). The closer the RMS wattage of the amp is to the RMS of the subwoofer the better you are. i.e. a 400 watt rms 800 watt max amp to a 375 watt rms 600 watt max subwoofer would be perfect. Amps have what is called channels that distribute watts to the subwoofers. The more channels the more subwoofers you can hook up but it is possible to hook up 2 subwoofers to an amp with only 1 channel aka a mono block amp. You would twist the wires together (making sure you twist 2 positives together and 2 negatives together) and plug it into the amp. Make sure the rms is still in consideration. for example A 750 watt Rms 1000 watt maxx with 1 channel can be paired with 2 subwoofers with 400 watt rms and 800 watts maxx(That is each subwoofer having 400 watt rms combining to produce up to 800 rms in total). This is done alot.

I can tell you alot more but it might go all over your head after that. lol.

Here is a scale of wattage in rms that you will be looking for depending on how loud you want it(talking bout subwoofer and amp wattage:

100-300 watt rms---you will hear clean low bass in the car but not that much outside the car

300-500 watt rms---- you will make the trunk rattle a little bit and it will be moderately loud inside the car.

500-800 watt rms----the trunk will shake and you can feel the vibration throught the whole car. The rear view mirror will turn upside down or move to much to look out of it so you will have to use the side mirrors. you will hear your car about 300-700ft away

800-1000 watt rms---- you will hear your car coming from down the street before you turn the corner. It will be very loud inside if you are not use to it. your back will vibrate because of the seats vibrating.

1000+ watt rms--- is not where you want to start off at but if you do you will need to learn about capacitors and alot of other things. but it will be amazingly loud.

-----if anything is unclear or you have any questions jus email me and i will get back to you.


Here is what I look at when choosing an amplifier, and in their order of preference:

1. Power. I know, this is where MOST people look first, but it's the very reason you are buying an amp, right? Also knowing Ohm's Law, and knowing that I will almost always load an amplifier with the maximum specified impedance (impedance - 4 ohms or higher, NOT load - 4 ohms or lower), I need to know exactly how much power I am looking at to start with. When loading an amp with a higher impedance, the amp will make less power, so I have to keep this spec in mind the whole time. My speakers are almost always chosen before I decide to start looking for an amplifier, I know the impedance and efficiency numbers when I start. This will help me decide how much power I need or want for that particular driver compliment. I will NEVER look at "Max Ratings". They are often worthless, generally overinflated, selling tools, designed by old-school, low-end amplifier companies, originally made to sell product. (You remember how it went (and still goes today)... This 800 watt amplifier is only 200 dollars, but the Nakamichi 160 watt monoblock is 1300 bux for the pair. Which were (are) YOU going to buy?) Ahhhh, the power of advertising... Classic Nakamichi, Alpine, Linear Power, Orion, Eclipse, etc., THEY never posted "Maximum Power" numbers, did they? Unfortunately, even the good products of today will state maximum power output, I just disregard the numbers posted.

2. Signal to noise ratio. This one I place a bit more weight on, especially when the amplifier is going to be used in a mid-bass (important), mid-range (more important) or highs (MOST important) application. The higher the better, and there is no exception to this rule for me. Amps with tube stages are typically less capable than their solid state stablemates in this area, but I do make exceptions for tube amps. It is NOT a terribly important spec for a bass amp, so when shopping for a bass amp, don't bother with this number. Dedicated bass amps, BTW, usually offer awful SNR numbers.

3. Efficiency. Here's where you will be able to tell a decent manufacturer from the crap. Let's say you are looking at an 250 watt (RMS) amplifier. The first physical thing I look at, is how big a fuse do they recommend (or what size fuse is in the end of the amp)? I know right now that 250 watts OUT will demand (and I use 50% efficiency to keep it simple) 500 watts in. 500 watts in, divided by the (car running) battery voltage (14.4v) is about 35A. If I look at the end of the amp, and see a 20A fuse, I'm walking away, as there is no way that amp can make 250 REAL watts, continuously. 14.4v times 20A, equals 280 watts in. 250 watts out, divided by 280 watts in, translates to an 89% efficiency. In a class A/B amp, this is an impossible number, and it even stretches the imagination for digital amps, as well. The theoretical MAXIMUM efficiency for class A/B is 66%, (95% for digital) so someone is lying. I don't care WHO the manufacturer is, if these numbers don't add up, I will start looking elsewhere... Now, if all the other specification look good, AND I can get in the vicinity of the RMS power I am looking for, I will buy an amp that's efficiency number might be stretching the truth a bit. My old Nak 160 watt monoblocks had 40A (that's 480 watts in - a 33% efficiency, people!) fuses in each one, and they ran hotter than a firecracker, even loaded at over 8 ohms. I liked that.

4. Terminals. A frequently overlooked part of an amp, this is a very important part of an amp to me. A car is a place frought with vibrations. A cheap or cheezy feeling connector in power or speaker terminals and most ESPECIALLY in the RCA inputs, will often cause problems in the future. Setscrews for power, quality terminal blocks for speaker outputs, and Tiffany style RCA connections (the type attached to the chassis, rather than a block of plastic soldered to the PC board.) The quality of the I/Os can be a direct indicator of the attention to detail paid to the rest of the piece. Translation? Overall Quality.

5. Heat sink. This one is simple. How does it look? I eventually chose Eclipse gear, because it looked like jewelry. Fine finish and appearance. Also, heatsink size and quality can be another indicator of quality of the amplifier as whole. A heavy heatsink will also provide better thermal stability, a nice thing in an amp.

6. Damping Factor. I used to place more emphasis on this spec, but my research recently (over the last few years, really) has, while not proven to me it is a useless spec, has not proven to me it is an extremely important spec. This is why this particular spec is a little further down the list. While I place a bit more emphasis on it for a bass or mid-bass amp, I, admittedly, place less weight here than I used to...

7. Price. Money rarely means much to me in an amp, (much like my computers - "Life's too short to build slow computers." - David Draper) it's something I am going to be keeping for a long time usually, so I will save if necessary to get EXACTLY (or close to) what I am looking for.

These are the things I look for when trying to decide on an amp. OBVIOUSLY, there are going to be VERY few amps on the market that will make me happy across the board, but then some of the physical characteristics listed above can be made to fit me and my desires with a little time, a couple extra bux, and some careful use of a soldering iron

How much power is too much for a car audio system?

This is more for an opinion than an answer, but how much power is too much on a car audio system? I have a 1200 watt sony system and it has enough power to shake my street. 8) What's your guy's opinions?


man if you got the money there isnt such a thing as too much. i mean obviously over 15000 watts is a lil intense but some people want it. if you have no limit on money go really big. i can tell you right now that sony anything sucks. if you think that is hitting really hard then you've never heard a real loud system. go out and buy some solo x 12's and fully power them with 5000 watts rms and then tell me bout your sony xplodes. but if you dont want to be upgrading the alternator and the battery and stuff like that and just want to stick with just buying subs and an amp...stay under 900 watts rms just to be safe. its said if you go over your gonna need to be upgrading wires and electrical stuff so it all depends on your pocket book


i dont belive that sony xplods??? those suck if thats wat u got but around 20 thousand watts


well i have 2 12" Rockford fosgate dvc subs with a JL audio 2000watt amp and i recently was in a db drag race and i was hitting 157.3 decibels so I'm hittin hard
so my opinion is the more bass the better


If your pockets are deep then I go for some MTX JackHammers.


5 kilowatts rms is about all one person should mess with


Too much power is indicated by making mods to the car to fit an extra alternator.

What car audio system should I get for my car?

I have a 2008 Dodge Charger SE and i was wondering what kind of car audio system I should get? Something not too expensive but sounds really good. I heard Alpine and Kicker systems were the best. Please help me. Thanks


it depends on how much you are willing to spend and how much you want to upgrade

if you are serious but don't want to break to bank or have to upgrade you interior speakers (from being drowned out by the bass) then i would suggest a couple of 12s with at least 400watts RMS total in a nice ported box

always listen before you buy and pick what sounds good to YOU

when it comes to car audio nine times out of ten you get what you pay for- and you need to look for CEA-compliant brands which means that the amps have been tested and produce or exceed the advertised RMS wattage with minimum distortion and the subs can handle their advertised RMS wattage also (distortion is the main cause of speaker damage over time)
here are the top CEA-compliant brands
Alpine (highly recommend)
Bazooka (don't like their subs)
Blaupunkt (don't like their subs)
Clarion
Eclipse
Infinity (highly recommend)
JBL
JL Audio (very good but over priced)
JVC
Kenwood (don't like their subs)
Kicker (the best in my opinion)
Lightning Audio (have not heard their subs)
MTX (highly recommend)
Pioneer
Polk Audio (highly recommend)
PPI
Rockford Fosgate (highly recommend)
Sony (don't like their subs)

you want at least 400watts RMS if you are serious (a little over $500)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3867_Kicker+DCVR122.html $300 for two 12inch Kicker CVRs) and for an amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13240_Pioneer+GM-D8400M.html ($210) with at least 4gauge wire

Where in Chandigarh Can I get best installation for Car audio system including speakers?

Where in Chandigarh Can I get best installation for Car audio system including speakers. Also suggest some shop where I can buy car audio system in original at best price?


Auto Center Sector: 28 - C!

I am looking to achieve a car audio system that sounds like if I am in a cinema, can someone help me?

I love getting into custumizing my car's audio system, but it seems that every time I have a question on it, all I get is people selling me different components that do not meet my expecteitions, I been to a lot of car shows but I do not get anwers.


Simply put, you will never find that. You are trying to get an experience like you are in a room that has 25ft ceilings, is 30-40ft across, and has a screen that is at least 20ft away then simulating it in a box that is no more than 4ft floor to ceiling, 6ft across, and less than 10ft deep. The acoustics are completely different in small spaces than in large ones since the sound has no way to develope. Plus, you are dealing with half the surface area of the car being reflective glass which will only hurt the sound more, and there is no way to accurately predict what the resonant frequencies will be in the cabin; so, you will be getting many weird nodes in the car where the sound is too loud or too soft.

If you want to try it, I would get the biggest vehicle you could to offset the problems of a small box. A van or large SUV would be the best bet. Then, you would want to cover up all the flat, reflective surfaces you could with sound dampening material. Still, even if you put 3inch foam up everywhere, you are going to only get sound dampening down to about 90Hz which means the bass will be unrestrained. There is a chance the seats will absorb some of the lower stuff, but it will still sound bad.

After you have dampened as much as you can, you are going to have to worry about speakers and placement. Tweeters and midranges can usually fit in pillars or kick panels. The sub is generally going to be okay wherever because of the size of your "theater". Still, it is going to be a lot of problems. An outboard parametric EQ and actively crossing over all the speakers will help, but movie theater sound is just not simple to do in a car.

Getting a 10ft x 12ft x 8ft room to sound like a movie theater is hard enough. To make a car sound like a genuine theater is near impossible. If you aren't doing all the work yourself then expect to be paying at least four figures for the install which might only sound okay or accept not being satisfied with your stereo. For someone like me who has years of acoustics experience, I would not even attempt this endeavor unless the customer had a great deal of time and money on their hands along with a 0% liability clause in the contract.

How do I break in a car audio system.?

I am about to buy a car audio system. ( my first) and was wondering if i needed to break it in before i could turn it up real loud, and how long, if so. If you have a website to help me with this, please send it to me, or post it. Thanks.


it's a debatable subject but I personally have done it w/ previous systems. I did this for about 2 weeks and then started pushing the system.

I look at it like a new engine.....redlining and balls-to-the-wall driving are generally discouraged for the first 1k or so miles....can't remember the exact duration but seems like it was around here for my TypeR

What is the best place to have a new car audio system put in, Best Buy or Circuit City?

I want to have a new car audio system put in my Kia Sportage, both places have told me they will have to put in a cubby hole below the new player because they do not make any that can fill the hole where the current audio system is. I want it to be Ipod capable like my last two cars, but where would be the best place to do it, and who offers free instillation with purchase.

How do resume play on my ipod when my car audio system is switched off?

Just installed a new car audio system in my car ( CDX - GT300s ) Everything works fine, accept when I turn my ignition off completely and back on again my ipod plays from the beginning, not very good with a 30gb ipod.


sounds like an ipod software ssue to me. Try updating your software

Is there a definitive guide on the internet about using and setting up a car audio system?

I am wondering if there is a guide on the internet (preferably illustrated) which tells you what you need for a good car audio system, how much it would cost and instructions on how to install one.

Thanks in advance for your help


go to http://www.crutchfield.com

Array

This video will explain everything. Complete Big 3 Upgrade Installation Advice & Tutorial * More Q's? * - www.youtube.com **Enjoy The ...

Stillwater Expands Docking-Speaker Lineup Twice

Stillwater, Okla. - Stillwater Designs, known for its Kicker -brand aftermarket autosound products, is expanding its presence in Kicker-branded iPod- and Zune-docking speaker systems with four new models, including its first two docking clock radios.

In 2008, the company launched its first iPod/iPhone-docking speaker system and first Zune-docking speaker system to expand its small home audio presence. Those 40-watt models, since upgraded, remain in the line at a suggested $249 each.

They will be joined by two lower power models - the iPod/iPhone-docking iK350 and Zune-docking ZK350 - at a suggested $199 each. Both 20-watt models will be the company's first docking speaker systems available with optional rechargeable battery, retailing for a suggested $99.95. The ZK350 will also be Stillwater's first Zune-docking system with HD FM signal amplifier and external HD FM antenna wire to reproduce HD and analog FM radio stations picked up by the ZuneHD's FM tuner.

The other two new products are the iPod/iPhone-docking iK150 clock radio at a suggested $179 and the Zune- and ZuneHD-docking ZK150 clock radio at a suggested $179. Both feature dual alarm, full-range speakers with tuned-port enclosure, 3.5 mm headphone jack, aux input, sleep timer, choice of 10 levels of display brightness and internal power backup for saving all settings. The iK150 is available in white or black. The ZK150 is available in black, and the white version ships in late November.

The two new systems lacking clock radio functions include the iPod/iPhone-docking iK350, which ships in mid-December with 4.5-inch square subwoofer on back. The supplied remote controls system functions as well as complete navigation of iPhone and iPod playlists, albums, artists and videos. The Zune-docking ZK350, due in mid-December, offers the same features but adds the HD/FM external antenna that captures signal from local analog and digital FM stations picked up by the ZuneHD's internal HD Radio tuner.

All of the iPod/iPhone devices are Works with iPhone-certified.

In other new products, the company expanded its selection of stereo headsets with six new models.

The EB51 ear buds at a suggested $19.95 are available in four colors and smooth, pliable texture on housing for a comfortable fit. The $29.95-suggested EB71 stereo noise-isolation in-ear monitors, also available, comes with four sizes of soft silicone tips and five color options. The HP1973 classic-style over-the ear headphones at a suggested $69.95 are also available with retro styling, and the EB71M in-ear stereo headset with microphone at a suggested $49.95 is due in December, also with in-line microphone, multi-function button for calling and listening convenience, and four sizes of soft silicone tips.

Another new headphone is the EB101M premium in-ear stereo headset with in-line microphone in gun-metal gray. It's due at $69.95 in mid-December with three sizes of noise-isolation silicone tips, one set of Memory Foam tips, and multifunction button for calling and listening convenience

The $99.95 HP541 DJ-style headphones, available in mid-December, feature over-the-ear, full-swivel ear cups and interchangeable cables for iPhone/MP3 players at 4 feet in length or for studio use at 11.5 feet.

Stillwater will exhibit the new products at January's International CES. The company markets Kicker-brand car audio speakers, amplifiers, signal processors and accessories as well as SoundGate-brand OEM-aftermarket integration devices.

Liliputing Holiday Giveaway: Universal car mount from Ultimate-Netbook Liliputing

Car-mounts for netbooks are fascinating things. Add a GPS receiver and your netbook can instantly become a full featured GPS system with an enormous display (by GPS standards). You can also use a mount to plug a netbook into your car audio system and use it as a jukebox, although I’d recommend having the person in the passenger’s seat manage the media player controls.

UK-based retailer Ultimate-Netbook offers a universal car mount that can accommodate netbooks ranging from 7″ to 13″ in size. It normally retails for about $36, but Ultimate Netbook has offered up the universal mount along with a $25 universal netbook car charger with a USB port for the Liliputing Holiday Giveway.

In order to enter, just leave a comment below explaining what you plan to do with this car mount and car charger set. The contest is open to anyone in the world, and I’ll randomly select a winner after the contest closes at 12:01AM Eastern on November 27th.

Make sure to read the official contest rules before entering.

ASTRI, Optek and Silterra unveil advanced Audio soc with audio post-processing ... PRLog.Org (press release)
Art 0.18µm to 0.16µm CMOS direct shrink process technology offered by Silterra, a Malaysia based leading mixed signal wafer fabrication foundry. Silterra’s 0.16µm process technology was chosen because it is the most optimal and cost effective process technology for the highly competitive consumer electronics market.

OPT5256 is a highly integrated solution jointly developed by ASTRI and Optek. It can support a broad range of music formats codec including MP3, WMA and AAC, and JPEG decoding for photo display. One prominent feature is that it can convert CD to MP3 with compression for SD card and USB flash storage. Apart from USB port and SD-card interface, the solution also integrates most of the peripheral devices such as memory, LCD display control and many input/output devices into a single chip. The solution will enable system manufacturers to roll out highly compact and cost effective products due to smaller footprint and less components required. OPT5256 is also hi-fi compatible. By incorporating an ASTRI-owned audio effect post-processing IP into the solution, it can offer spatial and bass enhancement, and 5-band graphical equalizer which are important features for enhancing music performance.

“With these unique features, OPT5256 provides an all-in-one solution for manufacturers to design their products with flexibility and create differentiation in CD, HDD and flash-based multimedia player applications,” said Dr. Chao Shen-chang, a Vice President and Group Director of ASTRI. Under this collaboration, ASTRI has assisted in direct-shrinking Optek’s design from 0.18µm to 0.16µm CMOS process technology to achieve additional size and cost reduction of their products.

“We target to offer our customers a cost-effective, low-power and high-performance microprocessor solution. OPT5256 has fulfilled all these requirements and will satisfy the needs of manufacturers for producing high quality digital audio systems,” said Lee Ping, CEO of Optek. OPT5256 solution can be applied in a wide range of products including car audio, home audio system, boom box, digital photo frame and high-end digital audio system with TFT GUI display panel, just to name a few.

The CMOS 0.16 silicon sample chip of Audio Codec SoC ASIC with audio post-processing features has successfully passed all functional tests including USB1.1 & 2.0 interface tests. Optek is currently preparing for mass production in Silterra and is finalizing the application software and system board for reference design.

“Silterra is very excited about the partnership with ASTRI and Optek to accomplish the first time silicon success on Silterra’s 0.16µm to 0.18µm process technology. We look forward to broadening our collaboration with ASTRI and Optek on Silterra’s high-performance 0.13µm and 0.11µm process technologies in the near future”, said Lai Yit Loong, Worldwide VP of Sales and Marketing of Silterra.
Enhancing The quality Of Average Car Audio System

Typical audio car system possesses small speakers with restricted ability of producing low frequency audio. You can make it high standard car audio system, if you add subwoofers to that device because these subwoofers add powerful and strong effects to car sound system.
Wider subwoofers make your speakers more efficient for air displacement that proves critical for frequencies. You can install amplifier for car sound subwoofers separately or integrate it into cabinet.

Recently many manufactures has introduced new shapes in subwoofer that are round, square and rectangle. These new subwoofers are easy to install in limited place and some of these have crossover to filter frequency of high range. Your right selection for the enclosure of car sound subwoofers influences the quality of audio produced by it.

Five basic kinds of subwoofers are available in the market.

•    Ported
•    Transmission line system
•    Sealed
•    Passive radiator
•    Band pass

The best kind of enclosure for frequent car use is sealed enclosure because it needs little space and fits to the audio requirement of car interior. There are various types of car audio  subwoofers in the market. You can buy custom made subwoofers or also make it by yourself. At the time of buying subwoofer driver, you will be given a space sheet which gives some essential guidelines about enclosure requirements. You need to follow all these guideline if you want to make an informed decision in increasing the efficiency of your car audio system in cost effective way.


Tech Watch: Nissan to Test New Warning System for Drivers - Edmunds.com/Inside Line

Tech Watch: Nissan to Test New Warning System for Drivers Nissan said the system will give the driver audio and visual warnings when the car is going the wrong way on a ramp near a service area or interchange.

Video Bluetooth Standard Due in April - Twice

Video Bluetooth Standard Due in April The standard would also provide faster audio and data streaming, at 50 megabits/second, or about ten times the current rate. Presently it might require days

King of Bling Goes Green - San Leandro Times

King of Bling Goes Green The car’s two-mode hybrid system mates an electrically variable six-speed transmission and a 300-volt nickel-metal-hydride Energy Storage System (ESS) to a

2010 Ford Mustang

2010 Ford Mustang The electronic finish panel containing the audio and climate control buttons and knobs are integrated into the finish panel,” said Kim Zielinski,

Nissan 370 simply Z-licious - BCLocalNews

Nissan 370 simply Z-licious - BCLocalNews ic LiverpoolNissan 370 simply Z-licious This was offset through the greater use of lightweight aluminum body panels and lighter wheels, exhaust system and fuel tank. Even the standard audio system Nissan 370Z Spiffy Enough; Will Market Respond? The Nissan 370Z Prices and Grades Nissan 370Z Pricing  -

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